Lesser Known Local Backcountry Escapes
In these times of rising living costs holidays can be out of the question for many families, but if you’re heading to, or live in, the Queenstown-Lakes, Central Otago region they don’t need to break the bank.
After a year of busy bustle and business pressures, sometimes it’s just nice to turn off the mobile phone and head to the hills, exploring the beautiful backcountry, and it will barely cost a cent.
There are many largely unknown backcountry huts, amid incredibly beautiful scenery, managed by DOC in the region, some more challenging to get to and others easily accessed and family friendly. Spectacular landscapes from high alpine tussocklands and mountain peaks to native beech forests and pristine clear waters, it’s pretty much all right on our doorstep.
Queenstown DOC Visitor Centre site lead Bex Orpin says making the most of these huts is a very cheap and affordable way to get out and experience some of our more untouched wilderness areas.
Here are a few of our best kept local secrets, some of them free, and in many cases there’s no need to book. It’s first in, first served for some though so it’s best to carry a tent just in case, says Bex. “We’re seeing loads more interest in people escaping to these backcountry huts - New Zealanders, and now international visitors returning too.”
Meg Hut
8 bunks, fireplace, $5 (adults) & $2.50 (children)
At 1100m this is an easy level, two-hour walk from the Snow Farm Access Road up a four-wheel drive track – a nice, easy overnight backcountry experience, only requiring a short drive from Queenstown. You can return to Tuohys Gully on a small circuit, via the Roaring Meg Stream. For the more adventurous, there’s a three to four-hour (13km) option, follow the Roaring Meg gorge down to the Roaring Meg Power Station in the Kawarau Gorge, or take the six or seven hour tramp (16kms) over the tops on the Lowburn Pack Track. Warm, windproof clothing is essential, even in summer, and this is great mountain biking territory too.
Mid-Caples Hut
24 bunks, fireplace, $20 (adults), $10 (youth 11 – 17), 10 & under free
A less advanced track, this one’s five-star when you’re going bush. A brand new spacious hut with double glazing and a fire serviced with coal by the resident ranger. There’s the added luxury of flush toilets and even toilet paper! Views are stunning and there are some epic swimming holes in the Caples River.
Dynamo Hut, Skippers
4 bunks, fireplace, $5 (adults), $2.50 (youth 11 – 17), 10 & under free
This one’s kid friendly and packed with intriguing mining history. It’s a three-hour walk to the hut from the historic Skippers Cemetery up Skippers Creek to a junction at Mount Aurum Recreation Reserve. Behind the hut are historic mining relics like the dynamo – an old gold mining historic feature. The Terrace above the Shotover River is also home to the restored Skippers School and there are interesting remains dotted about from the original Skippers settlement, home to several thousand people during the gold rush days. Explore the old Bullendale Hydro Mine behind the hut, the first site in the Southern Hemisphere to transmit electricity over a distance. “The hut was likely the manager of the Hydro’s house at the time,” says Bex. There are numerous stream crossings on this one and there’s always a beautiful array of lupins lining the banks. Brilliant on a hot summer’s day.
St Bathans Campsite
(basic DOC campsite)
Fees: Free
A delightful, quiet rural setting, St Bathan’s campsite offers a great base from which to explore the beautiful Blue Lake and Blue Lake Recreational Reserve, and remains of its early 1873 gold sluicings. The quaint historic township of St Bathans offers a peaceful escape in the heart of sunny Central Otago. For safety reasons, DOC recommends not camping under the trees at this campsite. Dogs are allowed here too.
Old Woman Hut
6 bunks, $5 (adults) $2.50 (youth 11 – 17), 10 & under free
Access to start this hike or four-wheel drive trip is via the Nevis Road out the back of Bannockburn. Drive, bike, or walk the 6kms up the four-wheel drive road a short distance from Bannockburn to Duffers Saddle at its highest point. This is an easy walk and an ideal trip for families. There’s a fire here but no fuel.
Lake Sylvan Campsite
(standard DOC campsite)
Fees:
• Adult (18+ years): $15 per night
• Child (5–17 years): $7.50 per night
• Infant (0–4 years): free
Here you can camp beside the clear, pristine waters of the Routeburn River. From here it’s a beautiful bush walk to Lake Sylvan via the bridge, or a day walk to the start of the Routeburn Track. This is the perfect fly fishing spot to net a catch for dinner. Pooches have to stay home on this one. No dogs are allowed as it’s part of the Mount Aspiring National Park.
McIntosh Hut
4 bunks, free
Not so easy on the way to Glenorchy and part of the McIntosh Loop Track in the Whakaari Conservation Area, reaching this hut is quite a climb – the highest in the Wakatipu, and at 1500m it’s for the advanced hiker.
Kay Creek Hut
4 bunks, free
A two-day hike up the Caples Flat to Mid-Caples this too is for the advanced, following Kay Creek and landing you near the Mid-Caples Hut and McKellar Hut on the Greenstone-Caples Track. It’s a great place to stop for those crossing from Scott Basin through Death Valley to Kay Creek (no marked route), or just a good base to explore the area. Once dilapidated, this hut was recently done up by Otago University PE students. A remote area, Bex says don’t expect too many passers-by on this one.
“Most of these huts are off the beaten tracks of the main tourist trails, except for Routeburn Flats and Caples Flat,” says Bex.
She urges anyone heading into the backcountry to heed DOC’s Tiaki Care Code and respect our pristine lands:
Be prepared
Protect Nature
Keep NZ clean
Show respect and hut etiquette
See: https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/know-before-you-go/
Payment is by DOC backcountry hut tickets, purchased at the local DOC Visitor Centre.
McIntyre Hut
5 bunks, $5 (adults), $2.50 (children)
Part of the McIntosh Loop Track, turn off 2kms before Glenorchy on the Queenstown-Glenorchy Road to start the hike at the Whakaari Car Park, from which it’s a three to four hour walk through steep country.
Skippers Campsite
(standard DOC campsite)
Fees:
• Adult (18+ years): $10 per night
• Child (5–17 years): $5 per night
• Infant (0–4 years): free
This is a standard campsite within the Queenstown-Wakatipu area. Set up camp within the scenic rocky natural features on the Skippers Terraces amid some of the region’s richest gold mining history, alongside the historic Skippers Cemetery and restored Skippers School. A perfect base from which to bike, walk, tramp or hunt and explore the wider area. Dogs are allowed here providing they’re on a lead.
Cameron Flat Campsite
(standard DOC campsite)
Fees:
• Adult (18+ years): $10 per night
• Child (5–17 years): $5 per
• Infant (0 - 4 years): free
This is a spacious DOC camping and picnic area with stunning views of the Brewster Valley and beautiful Makarora River. There are 30 non-powered tent sites and bookings are essential. There’s a wealth of beautiful bush walks, great fishing, hunting and tramping here, a few minutes up the road from Makarora Township on the road to Haast and the West Coast. It’s a great base from which to walk the short track to the beautiful, deep, clear waters of the Blue Pools for a nice cool swim.
The Blue Pools Track starts opposite Cameron Flat Campsite off the state highway. It’s an easy short walk through mature beech and podocarp forest which leads to the fascinating natural wonder of this pure glacial water gathered from the mountains.
Be prepared for some unwelcoming sandflies and mosquitos if venturing into many of these backcountry areas. Take plenty of good insect repellent!
Routeburn Flats Hut
20 bunks, $68 a night - NZ adults, NZ children free, international adults - $102, international kids - $51
An easy two-hour walk, 7kms, in through stunning beech forests and native bush from the start of the Routeburn Track beyond Glenorchy. This is definitely one of the more luxurious huts, managed by a friendly ranger. There’s even cold running water and flush toilets, heating and cooking facilities with fuel available and solar lighting in the communal kitchen. A great place to take the kids, there’s great swimming in the Routeburn River, however, it’s essential to book through DOC during the summer peak season.
