Vass wins Mountain Book of the Year

The life story of a pioneering New Zealand mountaineer, who suffered a broken neck while climbing in Fiordland in 2015, has won the Nankervis/Bamford NZ Mountain Book of the Year for 2023.
David Vass' book Not Set in Stone covers his life of adventure and a career as a mountaineer and guide, establishing numerous first ascents and descents in the country’s hills and canyons, and his life since the accident.
Vass was walking out after a climbing expedition in the Darran Mountains with friends when a tree root broke under his foot and he fell down a bank, which resulted in a broken neck and incomplete tetraplegia.
In his book, Vass shares both colourful tales and thoughtful perspective on the importance of connection with nature, and what happens when we are separated from it.
He's "chuffed" with his win.
"After many years in Wānaka I have just moved away, and this award makes a truly great farewell present," he says.
"I've been much humbled and gratified by the feedback I've received so far — it seems to have moved people in a similar way to how I felt writing it — the highs and the lows….
"And, if I think about it, to be awarded the Nankervis/Bamford feels somehow fitting, now that I’ve finally become an armchair mountaineer myself!"
The $2000 grand prize is awarded in the NZ Mountain Book Competition, as part of the long-running NZ Mountain Film and Book Festival.
Vass will be speaking at the festival in Wānaka on Tuesday, 27 June, alongside Robbie Burton, whose book Bushline – A Memoir was highly commended by the competition judges. Burton will also be part of the popular Words and Wine Session on Sunday, 25 June.
The Mountain Book Competition covers literature on the world’s remote places, expedition tales and stories about people and their adventures.
Submissions were invited for two categories: Mountain and Adventure Narrative for stories and accounts about specific adventures, fiction or non-fiction; and Mountain and Adventure Heritage for guidebooks, coffee table or picture books, history books, analyses, reflections on culture, environments or ethics and advocacy.
The Heritage Award goes to Wānaka mountain guide and adventure photographer Gavin Lang for Seeking the Light. Lang set himself a challenge not only to climb all 24 of New Zealand’s 3,000 metre peaks but to photograph them, as well. His book captures the tension and drama of mountaineering in Aotearoa and brings it all to life with stunning imagery.
Lang says he is "proud and honoured to be recognised as having contributed something significant to our mountain photography and literature." He'll also be speaking at the festival alongside Australia’s Backyard Adventurer, Beau Miles on Monday, 26 June.
High Risk: Climbing to Extinction by Brian Hall takes out the Narrative Award. Hall’s book speaks to an extraordinary era in the history of Himalayan mountaineering, from the mid 1970s to the ‘80s, and pays homage to the generation of climbers who pushed adventure to the edge.
"It is an honour and a privilege to be awarded the Best Mountain and Adventure Narrative for 2023," says Hall. "As the NZ Mountain Film and Book Festival grows in stature each year, delivering an outstanding programme, it is fantastic that literature is an important part of the event.
Hall continues, "Over the three years it took me to write High Risk: Climbing to Extinction I was worried that I would not do justice to my friends who can no longer speak. I was also aware that I had a duty to retell the climbing counter culture of the 70s and 80s. And, also, to describe the importance of this era as heavy weight expeditions were replaced by lightweight alpine style; a period often called the ‘Golden Age of Himalayan Climbing.’
"Receiving this award gives me confidence that my writing gives the reader an understanding of why we took so many risks while enjoying our climbing."
Festival goers will be able to enjoy a reading from High Risk: Climbing to Extinction by book competition judge Al Uren at the Words and Wine session.
Before selecting the winners of the 2023 NZ Mountain Book competition, the judges had a difficult task narrowing the entries down to six finalists.
Head judge, Marjorie Cook says: "The books submitted this year made impressive and inspiring reading. I laughed, I cringed with fear, I could not sleep - and I wondered - what on earth!
"The authors are evocative, relatable and well-connected to the environment - and just damn good story tellers. I particularly liked it when the Kiwi writers wove Maori context and culture into their adventure stories, used Te Reo and referenced creation stories.
"One thing I missed this year were female voices. I encourage every adventurous woman to enter their story next year.
"The production quality of all the entries was high. Once again, I found it challenging to choose six finalists and I'm thankful the festival permitted the addition of four highly commended books to the programme."
The 2023 finalists were:
Mountain & Adventure Narrative Award
Paul Hersey - The Cold Inside
Dave Vass - Not Set in Stone
Brian Hall - High Risk: Climbing to Extinction
Mountain & Adventure Heritage Award
Derek Morrison - Living the Dream
David Towns - Ahuahu: A conservation journey in Aotearoa
Gavin Lang - Seeking the Light
The following were Highly Commended by the judges:
Beau Miles - The Backyard Adventurer
Robbie Burton - Bushline
Jeff Smoot - All and Nothing: Inside Free Soloing
Carrie Miller and Chris Taylor - A Diver's Guide to the World: Remarkable Dive Travel Destinations Above and Beneath the Surface
The NZ Mountain Film & Book Festival will run in Wānaka from 23 to 27 June, in Queenstown 29 - 30 June, and online in NZ and Australia from 23 June 24 to 23 July. The festival’s literary events include guest speakers, author readings, book signings and book launches. Festival passes are on sale now, general ticket sales and the full festival programme will be launched on 23 May at mountainfilm.nz